![]() ![]() ![]() Though to be fair, I too have had a few problems using TB3 to glue up end grain, having it leave dark spots. Either way, for $3.50 more you’re definitely buying a little peace of mind. I’m wondering if the “water resistant” TB2 is really up to a few months of humidity above 90% for outdoor furniture. I live southern New England, where it gets nice and muggy in the summer and thunderstorms for almost all of the month of July. Gorilla Glue does not rely on the pores to bond and makes a pretty strong joint as does epoxy. If a previously glued joint comes loose, PVA glue does not bond effectively because the pores are clogged, which makes for a weak joint. That is because PVA makes incredibly strong joints on unfinished raw wood, but in the process clogs the wood pores. ![]() When repairing something like loose chair spreaders and spindles, it works well. I’m not a big fan of Gorilla glue because of the foaming - you have to keep wiping it for about half an hour - but it does have it’s uses. It works well for some applications, and sometimes is better than Titebond and other PVA glues on wood as explained below. Last month the bottle was still viable and I used it again, so it can be done. This time, after using a small amount, I followed the directions on the bottle and squeezed the air out of it before I capped it. Then about a year ago I needed Gorilla again for some reason and bought a new small bottle. I had that experience the first time I used Gorilla glue. Its a great way to get the stuff you need while helping support The Wood Whisperer! And if budget isn’t a factor and you don’t mind paying significantly more, you may as well just go with Titebond III and cover all the bases.Īnd speaking of Titebond glues, you can pick up all of your glue supplies and accessories in our Amazon Store. If you occasionally make outdoor projects and cutting boards, stock up on Titebond II instead. So bottom line is for indoor projects, all you really need is Titebond Original. A properly-fit joint with the appropriate amount of pressure will create an incredibly strong and reliable bond using any of the three glues. Well I don’t know about you guys, but I am not about to stock three different types of PVA glue just for the sake of a few hundred theoretical PSI. And then I used TB II on a project where TB III would have been stronger. I recently had someone give me crap for using TB III on a project when all I needed was Titebond Orginal. Check out the PSI strength ratings below. But in my opinion, not enough to justify paying the cost difference between the three varieties. Strength-wise, there are some differences as well. As an aside, you might also look at Titebond Extend if you need even more open time. So for those complex glue-ups, Titebond III would be a good choice. Titebond III offers twice the open time of Titebond II and Original. If you have a project that will be submerged for short periods or exposed to ambient moisture for extended periods, consider Titebond III. So if you have a project that will be exposed to light water (cutting boards, outdoor furniture, etc.), Titebond II will suffice. Titebond Original is for interior use only, Titebond II is water-resistant, and Titebond III is waterproof (well, technically its MORE water-resistant). The second difference is water resistance. Looking at Rockler’s current pricing on quarts, we have $8.59 for Titebond Original, $10.49 for Titebond II, and $13.99 for Titebond III. The first one you probably already noticed is the price. But in my opinion, there are only a few factors that really make a difference to the average woodworker. There are actually a number of differences between the three glue types if you dig into the details. Everyone has this question at one point or another. Is there any real significant difference between Titebond Original, II, and III wood glues? Is one really better than another? Thanks for your time. Hey Marc I have a really dumb question for you. Here’s a fundamental question from Jason. ![]()
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